 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| LABRADOR Lake Kamestastin |
Sponsored by the Canadian Wildlife Federation
September 29 - October 18, 2008
September 29 - October 18, 2008
Portion of a herd passing along a ridge SE of the lake under the waxing
moon
Photo by Rob Mullen. Our pro, Gary McGuffin will have even nicer ones and I owe Gary a thank you for
convincing me to finally use a tripod and my big lens. He will have what should be a stunning print coming from this
encounter and it is the inspiration for "Caribou Moon" a study for which is in the artwork page for this expedition
moon
Photo by Rob Mullen. Our pro, Gary McGuffin will have even nicer ones and I owe Gary a thank you for
convincing me to finally use a tripod and my big lens. He will have what should be a stunning print coming from this
encounter and it is the inspiration for "Caribou Moon" a study for which is in the artwork page for this expedition
Young bull passing in front of the unfinished lodge. The bull
was part of a herd of about a thousand that came through that
morning. The lodge is part of the Tshikapisk Foundation's
effort to develop an eco-tourism facility that will help
reinvigorate Innu pride in their ancient heritage and incorporate
it profitably into the modern day cash economy.
Photo by Rob Mullen
was part of a herd of about a thousand that came through that
morning. The lodge is part of the Tshikapisk Foundation's
effort to develop an eco-tourism facility that will help
reinvigorate Innu pride in their ancient heritage and incorporate
it profitably into the modern day cash economy.
Photo by Rob Mullen
| Frustration was building Jay |
| It started to feel hopeless Sisyphos |
| Are those caribou? Cole and Steve |
| We hid in the bushes Sue |
September 28, 2008:
The artists on the crew assembled at WREAF member Bonnie Rowell's house in Montreal where her tenant Pierre
Pellicer prepared a gourmet send off dinner; hopefully a new WREAF tradition.
Pierre in from the barbecue Cole lending a hand
Stephen, Jay, Cole, Gary, Bonnie and Pierre at dinner
September 29 we departed Montreal and headed for Goose Bay. The route included a scenic drive along the Quebec
Northshore that interestingly included a meteorite impact crater along the St. Lawrence. The Charlevoix crater is about
ten times older than the Kamestastin crater (350 million as opposed to 38 million +/- a few million years), much larger
and harder to see. On the ferry at Tadoussac we saw Beluga Whales, then after a night in Baie Comeau we headed
north into the interior.
September 30: The drive this day took us through yet another meteorite impact crater. If we had been there 212
million years earlier we'd have been obliterated by the impact as it left a crater 62 miles in diameter. The Manicouagan
crater is now a reservoir created by the largest multiple arch and buttress dam in the world; the Manic 5 dam on the
Manicouagan River. This was one of two major hydroelectric installations we saw on our drive. Hydro development
is one of the major challenges facing the Boreal Forest. It also marked where we lost the paved road for most of the
rest of the drive. Just before we stopped for the night we passed the mammoth iron mine just on the Quebec side of
the border; another up close view of a major challenge facing the Boreal.
Gravel road (and dust)
Manic 5 near Manicouagan Reservoir
The artists on the crew assembled at WREAF member Bonnie Rowell's house in Montreal where her tenant Pierre
Pellicer prepared a gourmet send off dinner; hopefully a new WREAF tradition.
Pierre in from the barbecue Cole lending a hand
Stephen, Jay, Cole, Gary, Bonnie and Pierre at dinner
September 29 we departed Montreal and headed for Goose Bay. The route included a scenic drive along the Quebec
Northshore that interestingly included a meteorite impact crater along the St. Lawrence. The Charlevoix crater is about
ten times older than the Kamestastin crater (350 million as opposed to 38 million +/- a few million years), much larger
and harder to see. On the ferry at Tadoussac we saw Beluga Whales, then after a night in Baie Comeau we headed
north into the interior.
September 30: The drive this day took us through yet another meteorite impact crater. If we had been there 212
million years earlier we'd have been obliterated by the impact as it left a crater 62 miles in diameter. The Manicouagan
crater is now a reservoir created by the largest multiple arch and buttress dam in the world; the Manic 5 dam on the
Manicouagan River. This was one of two major hydroelectric installations we saw on our drive. Hydro development
is one of the major challenges facing the Boreal Forest. It also marked where we lost the paved road for most of the
rest of the drive. Just before we stopped for the night we passed the mammoth iron mine just on the Quebec side of
the border; another up close view of a major challenge facing the Boreal.
Gravel road (and dust)
Manic 5 near Manicouagan Reservoir
Crew:
Jordanna Benuen, Labrador; Innu guide
Linda Besse, Washington: (www.besseart.com) New Artist
Cole Johnson, New York (www.colejohnsonart.com) New Artist
Jay Johnson, Massachusetts (www.jayjjohnson.com) New Artist
Tony Jenkinson, Labrador (www.tshikapisk.ca), Tshikapisk co-founder
Gary McGuffin, Ontario (www.garyandjoaniemcguffin.com)
Rob Mullen, Vermont (www.paintnpaddlestudio.com)
Steve Oliver, Pennsylvania (www.steveoliverart.com) New Artist
John Pitcher, Vermont (www.goldleafstudiosinc.com)
Sue Westin, Vermont (www.goldleafstudiosinc.com) New Artist
Jordanna Benuen, Labrador; Innu guide
Linda Besse, Washington: (www.besseart.com) New Artist
Cole Johnson, New York (www.colejohnsonart.com) New Artist
Jay Johnson, Massachusetts (www.jayjjohnson.com) New Artist
Tony Jenkinson, Labrador (www.tshikapisk.ca), Tshikapisk co-founder
Gary McGuffin, Ontario (www.garyandjoaniemcguffin.com)
Rob Mullen, Vermont (www.paintnpaddlestudio.com)
Steve Oliver, Pennsylvania (www.steveoliverart.com) New Artist
John Pitcher, Vermont (www.goldleafstudiosinc.com)
Sue Westin, Vermont (www.goldleafstudiosinc.com) New Artist
October 1
After a night in Labrador City we headed off onto the Labrador Highway, the dust now turned to mud as the light rain
of the previous afternoon had strengthened overnight into a soaker. After refueling in Churchill Falls we passed the
generating station; one of the largest in the world and built upon one of the greatest waterfalls in Canada....well
formerly so anyway. Now water flows over Churchill Falls only occasionally. Crossing a bridge over the skeletal
remains of the Churchill was a forlorn experience.
We arrived in Goose Bay at dinner time. Our plan was to fly out the next day and meet up with Dr. Loring and Tony
Jenkinson at the camp. It was quite a surprise therefore when Dr. Loring drove in as we were unpacking at the hotel,
waving a friendly hello. Travel in the North requires flexibility and this trip was to be no exception.
Dr. Loring's field survey had been aborted due to high winds and associated problems and they had come out early.
Stephen joined us for dinner and afterward we talked to Tony Jenkinson who agreed to accompany us to Kamestastin
with his granddaughter Jordana.
October 2
Despite some last minute excitement getting all ten of us on the plane in time we took off on the Innu Mikun Twin
Otter around 11:30 am. The flight was above cloud for the most part but we had occasional teasing peeks at the
landscape unfolding below us.
It wasn't until we started descending into the crater that we could clearly see the tundra hurtling past a short way
under the landing gear. The landing strip at Lake Kamestastin was built by Stephen and is quite unique; it curves
(eskers do that sometimes). It was an exciting landing as we banked steeply over the lake and made our first approach.
The pilot apparently didn't like the set up and veered off. He lined it up again as we all got another intimate look at
the islands at the narrow end of the lake. It is bumpy landing on a rough tundra airstrip carved into an esker. Tony
said that sometimes the pilots will make six or seven passes before setting down so that we actually fared quite well.
Getting to camp was a bit of a job; the strip is over a mile from the camp and there were no outboards running at the
time.
We had been expecting several Innu families to be encamped for their caribou hunt but Tony said they were all still
somewhat south of us at Border Beacon. We had the place to ourselves so we settled into the cabins and unpacked.
After a night in Labrador City we headed off onto the Labrador Highway, the dust now turned to mud as the light rain
of the previous afternoon had strengthened overnight into a soaker. After refueling in Churchill Falls we passed the
generating station; one of the largest in the world and built upon one of the greatest waterfalls in Canada....well
formerly so anyway. Now water flows over Churchill Falls only occasionally. Crossing a bridge over the skeletal
remains of the Churchill was a forlorn experience.
We arrived in Goose Bay at dinner time. Our plan was to fly out the next day and meet up with Dr. Loring and Tony
Jenkinson at the camp. It was quite a surprise therefore when Dr. Loring drove in as we were unpacking at the hotel,
waving a friendly hello. Travel in the North requires flexibility and this trip was to be no exception.
Dr. Loring's field survey had been aborted due to high winds and associated problems and they had come out early.
Stephen joined us for dinner and afterward we talked to Tony Jenkinson who agreed to accompany us to Kamestastin
with his granddaughter Jordana.
October 2
Despite some last minute excitement getting all ten of us on the plane in time we took off on the Innu Mikun Twin
Otter around 11:30 am. The flight was above cloud for the most part but we had occasional teasing peeks at the
landscape unfolding below us.
It wasn't until we started descending into the crater that we could clearly see the tundra hurtling past a short way
under the landing gear. The landing strip at Lake Kamestastin was built by Stephen and is quite unique; it curves
(eskers do that sometimes). It was an exciting landing as we banked steeply over the lake and made our first approach.
The pilot apparently didn't like the set up and veered off. He lined it up again as we all got another intimate look at
the islands at the narrow end of the lake. It is bumpy landing on a rough tundra airstrip carved into an esker. Tony
said that sometimes the pilots will make six or seven passes before setting down so that we actually fared quite well.
Getting to camp was a bit of a job; the strip is over a mile from the camp and there were no outboards running at the
time.
We had been expecting several Innu families to be encamped for their caribou hunt but Tony said they were all still
somewhat south of us at Border Beacon. We had the place to ourselves so we settled into the cabins and unpacked.
The next several days brought a variety of weather. It had been unusually warm, clear and calm upon our arrival -
almost as though someone were trying to lure us into a false sense of serenity. October 3 dawned with hard wind
and rain with low temps. Nonetheless a few of the crew could not contain their enthusiasm and set forth. The rain
eased after that though the skies were largely overcast with sometimes truly awesome wind.
The search for the caribou was on....for six days.
almost as though someone were trying to lure us into a false sense of serenity. October 3 dawned with hard wind
and rain with low temps. Nonetheless a few of the crew could not contain their enthusiasm and set forth. The rain
eased after that though the skies were largely overcast with sometimes truly awesome wind.
The search for the caribou was on....for six days.
| Where are those caribou? John |
| We looked high Linda |
| And we looked low Cole |
| We stood on rocks Jay |
| Even Rocket Man couldn't find caribou Rob |
But we are all artists; able to find inspiration where others might only see a barren rocky windswept
tundra.....devoid of any living thing; right?
Right
So we focused on the land. It has an alien beauty that can absorb you and which feels wondrously timeless -
liberating and peaceful - yet with an undercurrent of ominous threat too - this place is truly wild, one too many
mistakes could be the end of you. Some of us traveled alone at times but only with the greatest care and respect
tundra.....devoid of any living thing; right?
Right
So we focused on the land. It has an alien beauty that can absorb you and which feels wondrously timeless -
liberating and peaceful - yet with an undercurrent of ominous threat too - this place is truly wild, one too many
mistakes could be the end of you. Some of us traveled alone at times but only with the greatest care and respect
| And even absent caribou the tundra wasn't lifeless.... |
We saw bear tracks
Photo by Rob Mullen
And bears
Photo by Jay Johnson
Photo by Rob Mullen
And bears
Photo by Jay Johnson
| Several of us saw wolves at a distance, porcupines, Golden Eagles, Gyr-Falcons, Crossbills, Ravens, Loons, Golden-eyes, Boreal Chickadees, Redpolls, Water Pipits, Common Mergansers, Geese and even one Snowy Owl. Then there were the Ptarmigan! We spent several forays specifically targeting these wily "Tundra Chickens" with Cole the Master of the Hunt in light of his initial encounter with over a hundred of them. |
| But still, underneath all the artsy-fartsy philosophy the never extinguished question smoldered: Where ARE those caribou? |
| . . . . . . |
| On October 8 (our first clear day) Rob had decided to make the long hike out to a gorge near where Stephen had suggested was a good place to portage to the Kogaluk (a future trip). Tony agreed that it would be a good area to scout for caribou sign as well and John decided to join him. They never made it to the gorge. Over the course of the day they were distracted by over 500 caribou. The get-up to the left is John's finest caribou dance costume; the cows were really interested in him. But it wasn't just the brave expeditionists; everyone saw caribou that day and each day thereafter; thousands of them. |
Photo by Linda Besse
Photos L, R and lower R by
Linda Besse; low L by Steve
Oliver
Linda Besse; low L by Steve
Oliver
And they were just suddenly there. Just like they
can suddenly disappear, a characteristic that has
earned them the sobriquet "Gray Ghosts".
can suddenly disappear, a characteristic that has
earned them the sobriquet "Gray Ghosts".
Photo by Jay Johnson
Photo by Jay Johnson
Photo by Jay Johnson
Photos L & R by Rob Mullen; Photo above by Jay Johnson
wilderness River Expedition Art foundation